Who reads this anyway? Nobody, that’s who. I could write just about anything here, and it wouldn’t make a difference. As a matter of fact, I’m kinda curious to find or how much text can you dump in here. If you’re like really verbose, you could go on and on about any pointless .….[no more than this]

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Cake day: Jun 05, 2023

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And the papers needs to in the appropriate letterbox by 2023-09-20T16:00.


And it’s a government institution too. Those aren’t well known for their sense of humor.


You can’t really kill a decentralized service without burning down the whole internet. Another way would be to offer a competing services, but that hasn’t killed e-mail yet.


Glad I could help.

I found some exmaple photos of super shallow DOF and the effect of aperture size in night photography. Doing this sort of magical stuff requires inconveniently heavy and expensive hardware upgrades. If you happen to like architecture, you’re absolutely going to need a tilt-shift lens. You can also use those lenses to make a real scenery appear as if it’s from a scale model. Nowadays you can also find lots of photos where that effect has been faked in post, but a tilt shift lens will be able to do it for real. Also, the fake versions don’t take distance into account and might blur the wrong parts of the photo for that sexy miniature look.

If you already know you don’t care about bizarre photos like that or if you know that carrying heavy equipment isn’t your thing, then going with a nice point and shoot camera will open up several new possibilities too. For example, having the ability to control depth of field even a little bit is incredibly valuavble in many situations.


The way I see it, there are three main differences to be aware of:

  1. What can be done with the camera?
  2. What is easy to do?
  3. How much control do you have?

It’s always important to just look at the target, assess the situation and think what can be done with it. Experience plays a big role in this, and the best way to gain experience is to try anything and everything. Go out in the woods and don’t come back until you’ve taken at least 100 photos. Play around with all the settings you can find, and see what works and what doesn’t.

If you can correctly identify the possibilities, you can get stunning photos, no matter where you are what equipment you have with you. In some situations, there might only be one or two easy photo opportunities and a hundred difficult ones. Instead of struggling with the hard photos, go snap the two easy ones and move on.

Occasionally, its also good to reach for the moon, but doing that all the time will be frustrating and can kill the joy of photography. Hitting a wall like that is important experience for you, so that you’ll know to avoid those situations in the future.

The software on the phone has been specifically designed for taking pictures of people in parties and family gatherings. If that’s what you mainly do with the camera, just about any mobile phone should serve you well.

Aperture is the biggest problem with mobile phones, so don’t focus on situations that demand you to control it. Usually, you’ll have deeper DOF than you really want so try to focus on situations where that is a benefit.

Zooming is problem too, so don’t worry about the bird sitting on the top of a tree across the road. Instead, try to find something interesting a bit closer by.

Long exposure night photography is the breaking point for me. On a mobile phone it’s difficult or even impossible to take the kinds of night photos I want.


Camera: Canon PowerShot S120

ISO sensitivity: 160

Focal length: 26 mm

EV: -1.7 (this is the main trick)

F-number: 5.7

Exposure time: 1/1250 s

You can also use the same trick with berries and leaves as the bright sunshine filters through them. In some cases you may need to crank the exposure value way past -2 to make the background dark enough. It helps, if you can put a shadow directly behind the subject.